Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

A rebate joint, at its simplest, is a slightly stronger version of a butt joint it provides contact between the mating components in two planes instead of one. A rebate is formed by removing a square or rectangular section across the end or along the edge of a piece of wood using hand or power tools.

Rebate joint
In the simplest type of rebate joint, the rebate is normally cut to half the wood thickness, leaving a projecting tongue equal to the thickness of the other, square-cut component. This type of rebate is often used on the tops of bookcases and shelf units where the top rests on and between the top ends of the sides. It may also be used for joining drawer fronts to and between the sides. At least half the end grain is hidden.

The joints are usually reinforced with pins, driven through the overlap in pairs at opposing angles - this is called dovetail nailing.

The rebate is usually cut with a rebate plane. This has a width guide and a depth stop and cleans the vertical edge of the cut as it is used. Short rebates in a board end, for example can be cut with a saw but care is needed.

Bare-faced halving
This is another type of rebate joint often used for fixing shelves in bookcases. The shelves have rebated ends with the projecting tongue lilting into the horizontal slots in the inner faces of the bookcase sides. The joint is made shoulder-up for strength. This joint may be used in drawers; a rebated back may be housed between the sides, or a front

Housing joints
Not all housing joints are rebated, but whether they are or not. they fall in two categories: the through housing, in which the construction is visible at both back and front edges of the joint; and the stopped housing which from the front edge appears to be a simple butt joint.

Through housing
This is a simple joint to set out and cut. The shoulder lines of the housing (the thickness of the board to be housed apart) should be marked across the inner face of the board and squared over the edges. The depth of the housing - between one-third and half the thickness - should be marked with a gauge. Then shoulders should be sawed and the waste removed with a chisel again work from each edge towards the centre. Finish the bottom of the housing with a router or a paring chisel.

Stopped housing
In this joint the cut should be taken only part way across the board, stopping about 20mm from the front edge. The end of the board to fit into it should be cut at the front corner to accommodate the 'stop'.

Mark shoulder lines across the inner face as far as the stop and on the back edge. Gauge the depth on the back edge too. To allow room to work the saw, the first 50mm of the housing back from the stop should be cut out with the chisel -used with its bevel down. Then saw shoulders, and chisel out the remaining waste and finish the bottom of the housing with a router if you have one.

Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

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Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints
Basic Woodworking Joints - Rebate and Housing Joints

Now you have known about rebate and Housing joints. Working with wood requires a lot of expertise. You should know how to control wood pests and how to work with Plywood.

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How Does Blowmoulding Work?

Blowmoulding moulding involves the processing of plastic pellets through a heated screw and barrel to heat the plastic to a molten state. The screw and barrel is similar to an auger arrangement where the material is pushed forward while the screw is rotating.

The molten material exits through the end of the screw and barrel via a diehead, which shapes the plastic into a cylindrical tube shape, which is called a parison.
When the parison is long enough, a mould with two separate halves is moved into position and closed around the parison. A knife then cuts the parison, and the mould is moved out of the way, to allow the parison to continue extruding for the next machine cycle.

A blowpin then enters the neck or opening in the mould, a blows the parison to the shape of the mould with compressed air, and the plastic is allowed to cool against the mould surface. While the plastic product is formed and allowed to cool, the next parison is processed through the screw and barrel, ready for the next cycle to begin.The tool then opens, and ejects the finished moulding.

The total cycle time taken to manufacture a plastic product from blowmoulding will depend on several different factors such as wall thickness of the plastic, and overall size of the component being moulded.

Items that are produced from blowmoulding can vary in size from small cosmetic containers up to large drums and tanks, and moulded parts range from consumer goods, food and beverage storage, automotive, and industrial uses.

How Does Blowmoulding Work?

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How Does Blowmoulding Work?

How Does Blowmoulding Work?
How Does Blowmoulding Work?

Discover more about the design of plastic products, or the tooling design for blowmoulding by visiting, http://www.3dplasticdesign.com

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How to A Build Welding Table

It is an accepted fact that welding is a risky operation and finding a safe workspace that can withstand the high heat of welding can be difficult. Welding operators who do not find suitable floor space or feel uncomfortable working on the floor may build their own convenient welding tables.

There are many different ways to design a welding table but the design must be such that it is cost-effective and also provide working comfort to the welding operator.

The biggest cost component in the making of any welding table is the thick steel top. But a 1.6mm gauge sheet metal on top of marine ply should suffice. This relatively thin sheet metal is more to protect the top of the ply wood from all possible spatter and hot sparks that emanate during the welding operations.

The ideal height of a welding table is 900mm high and this height would be right for all welding operators. It will be helpful to fit castor wheels to the bottom of the legs for easy movement of the welding table inside the workshop.

Materials needed to construct a welding table:

* Metal top of 1.6mm sheet metal to size 832x1195mm for use as table top surface
* Marine ply or some similar flat wood for table top, of the same size as the sheet metal
* Legs are 40x40x3mm box section
* Castor wheels - 4 nos.
* Iron angle for the underside of the table preferably 40x40x4mm
* Mesh for shelf beneath the table top
* Iron angle to size 25x25x3mm for using around the top ply edges
* Small length of 5mm diameter rod of half meter length

Procedure to construct the welding table:

* Cut down the marine ply to match the size of the sheet metal top. Chop up some angle iron that will be welded up so that it can be bolted to the underside of the wooded table top. Cut two angle irons to 632mm length and two other 995mm length and these will make up the underside frame of the table top.

* Lay out your four bits of angle on the workshop floor. All the cuts have to be at right angles. You will need to cut them at 45 degrees so that when you weld them together, the height will be flush. On the particular abrasive chop saw loosen the two bolts and adjust the angle to 45 degrees. Once that is done, trim the ends at 45 degrees.

* Get the angle grinder and clean up the cuts and make them fine and smooth so that when the pieces are butted together, there will not have any problems. Lay out the four pieces again and tack-weld them together.

* Once the four corners are tack welded you will need to check the whole thing for square and flatness. Check the corners with a square to make sure that they are at perfect right angles.

* Next, grind down the weld beads on the top flat angle surface. Some holes will have to be drilled around the frame to facilitate screwing the timber top to the bench.

* Now make up the shelf frame to consist of four pieces of the 40x40x3mm box section steel welded into a rectangle of the same dimensions of the top frame. Finish them off with a grinder to get the burrs and metal shavings off the cut face. Go to clamp and weld the frame up.

* Lay out your four lengths of steel and tack-weld them in all four corners four times. This frame should not be fully welded as the legs have to sit on top of and underneath it. So leave the four tack welds in each corner and just grind them down.

* Cut to length four pieces of box at 500mm long. These will be welded onto the frame that that was just made. Next, you will tack weld the angle iron frame to the top of these legs.

* ake some mesh and cut it out to fit on top of the shelf frame. Chop the corners out of the mesh so that the legs can be welded on. The bottom legs will now need to be cut out. Again out of 40x40x3mm box. Only tack welds for now.

* Weld the mesh into its place. The mesh once welded will hold the frame tightly. If everything is perfect and hold square, weld it all up. A few small tack welds for each castor wheel should see them holding on tight. Get hold of the angle grinder and use the wire brush and go over the whole frame work of the welding table.

* Use an angle iron frame to go around the edge of the marine ply top to protect the edge of the wood, and also to make it look more aesthetic. Tack-weld the top sheet of steel in a few places to the angle iron edge and do the vertical down welds for the edges of the angle iron.

How to A Build Welding Table

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How to A Build Welding Table

How to A Build Welding Table
How to A Build Welding Table

Alex David is a professional writer working with Everlastgenerators and he writing articles Welder. Welding Supply. He written many articles like Plasma Cutter, Welding Machines. For more information visit our site http://www.everlastgenerators.com/. Contact him through mail at weldings.info@gmail.com

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